(it was actually closer to 8 hours)
Today, I headed to Port Split, and took a public ferry to my first “famous” Croatian Island. There are a ton of them (over 1,000 – though only about 100 are actually inhabited by people), and what Croatia is really known for, so everyone on the ferry seemed shocked I didn’t spend any time on any of the larger ones in Dubrovnik. So then I tell them how I got super sea-sick in the Dominican and they laugh and laugh and laugh, and then, very seriously, ask me not to puke in the boat.
I was a little worried about the weather, as there were thunderstorms called for, but I had my raincoat and a great deal of enthusiasm, because I finally figured out what people had been saying. We were getting winds from the Sahara. With accents, I understand about 90% of what people are saying – but for the last few days, people kept saying something about the wind. I’d smile and nod and the conversation would move on. Sahara. Our winds were dirty, as they were bringing up sand from the Sahara.
I also heard a story about a ferry getting stranded – not the one I was on, but an overnight ferry between Italy and Split, which would normally take about 11 hours. That ferry was set up with sleeping berths; as people began waking up in the morning, they were confused why they were still surrounded by water. All of the engines had failed, and they wound up being stranded for about 1 1/2 days. The ferry had restaurants on it, so food wasn’t the issue – but everyone quickly ran out of cigarettes, which created quite the crisis.
The ferry ride was smooth, and I had ginger to settle my stomach, and everything was fine. Once there, I set off to explore the island. Brač is the closest large island, and technically has about 14,000 residents – though they do not all live there. Island residents actually get better benefits than those on the mainland – that’s because people are leaving the islands, and the government wants to keep residents. Schools are better, medical care can be better, certain things are subsidized for them, etc.
The out-migration is mainly due to the joining of the EU. Croatians are well educated, with a strong university system. Graduates can easily now leave for other EU countries, with much higher salaries. Tourism is the main economic driver right now – but even if you wanted to do a job in tourism, you’d still get paid a lot more in other countries than here.
First up on the island was a visit to Škrip, the oldest settlement on the island. It also has an olive oil museum, where you get to learn more about the oil, and try some. I was prepared, and brought my own bread, as well as all of my arm strength, as I got to try a turn at the press.
The museum was originally a working producer – it first started in 1864, and is now run as a museum by the 4th generation. Technology came, and the old fashioned presses no longer made sense to keep up.
October is the month when most of the olive harvest happens. I learned that green and black olives are actually the same – it’s just a matter of how ripe they are (black being the ripest) but for olive oil, they’re actually just mixed together and smushed.
The first press of the olives, which was called the “cold press” produced the best quality olive oil. The second press – to get all of the oil out – was done with a mixture of hot water as well, so was a lower quality.
Leftover olives could be used as a pate, or once dried, could be used as a fire starter.
About 350 kilos of olives would get you about 50 liters of oil.
After the tour, we got to do a tasting. Like, a wine tasting where you swish it in your mouth – but with really good olive oil. And then we got to try the oil and olives in various forms – it was all delicious, including the olive syrup, sweetened with grapes, that would be used in place of a syrup for pancakes!
The guide mentioned the best way to eat the jam is on the cheese. I had just been talking to my niece about ways I felt like an imposter. This was one of those moments – I had no idea you would eat jam on cheese!
While there, I also got to look at some interesting construction techniques.
Rock
These rock walls are all dry walls – there is no mortar to hold the rock in place. The stones themselves are excavated from the fields – they needed to be cleared for both olive and grape growing. Local craftsman helped the landowners in the stacking. These rock walls are so stable that the land workers actually would walk along the top of them – it was easier to get around on them than on the ground. Most of the walls on the island were built in the late 19th century.
Limestone was is also used on the homes, including on the roofs. It has many benefits – the white helps reflect the heat, and the limestone wash makes the roof waterproof, but it also keeps mold from growing, which is important in a Mediterranean climate.
Rocks themselves are also used for roofing. You have to be very careful though – the weight is intense, and the beams will only last about 25 years – and once one beam begins to crack, you have to replace them all (very carefully).
I then headed towards the southern side of Brač to Bol, where I explored a little more.
Stone Masonry School
Brač is famous for its pure white limestone. This is the stuff they made Diocletian’s Palace with. It is also used in parliament buildings in Vienna and Budapest, and in the White House in DC.
The school on the island opened in 1909. It admits 25 students per year. Most students start at the age of 14, and when they graduate (usually in 4 years), they’re officially stonemasons and are sought after all over the world.
The school was currently closed because they are taking their finals – but I was actually able to meet a working graduate of the school (and locally famous for his work), and his family. They’ve been working in stone for 121 years, and actually own their own quarry. He let me see his studio, and explained his sculpting process to me.
He’s currently working on a sculpture of a firefighter that died in Dubrovnik; the city commissioned him for the bust. From start to finish for a piece like this, it will take him 6 months. He starts with photos of the individual, and from there, creates a metal frame, and then sculpts the first version out of plaster. Once it is perfect, he then uses tools (the same they have used for generations) to replicate dimensions exactly, and transfers those to the limestone. He let me touch it – it is so smooth, you’d think it was plastic. It was actually incredible to see.
He also showed me an imperfection in the ear; he explained that as much as you need to see the stone, you also need to listen to the stone. You have to understand if it is a good piece, before you begin working, including listening to how sound reverberates from it (in case the stone has a large gap in it). In this case, there is a small imperfection in the stone on the bust’s left ear.
Vidova Gora
I stopped at Vidova Gora, which is the highest peak of the Adriatic with an elevation of: 2,552′. Some days, you can see Italy from here. Today was not one of those days.
On the way back down, I was stuck behind some cyclists. Cycling is not popular with Croatians, but over the past few years, has become a very popular tourism activity for those coming into the region.
Zlatni Rat Beach
My last stop of the day was the beach. It is a pebble beach, with really beautiful water – and thankfully, the sun came out so I got to enjoy it.
The very tip of the beach spreads 500 meters into the sea – and it changes daily, depending on which direction the wind is blowing. I actually got to see a pool while I was there, which is rare, and only happens when the winds are coming from both directions.
I made my way back to the mainland, and was exhausted so decided to just eat some protein bars that I had packed for dinner, but decided I wanted a drink. I went into a grocery store by my apartment, but wound up not buying anything. I couldn’t tell which drinks were alcoholic and which were just plain, so I stayed away from them. And I was too scared to try these as well.
